The weaving dirt track transports visitors to another place.
Just 3km from Beechworth, if it wasn’t for the gum trees, L’Oliveraie could easily be mistaken for a property in Italy or the south of France.
The 24ha olive grove is tended to by Helen McAlpin and Pierre Masclef.
Pierre’s French heritage is evident from the moment you drive down the olive and lavender-guarded drive.
Straight ahead stands the couple’s “shed”.
It may look more like a church than a farmer’s shed but it reminds Pierre and Helen of Pierre’s homeland of France.
The building is topped by a Basque bell brought over from France.
“The problem is the dog will do anything to stop me ringing it,” Pierre laughs.
And to demonstrate her disdain for the beautiful bell, Millie the dog chases him away from the long rope that attaches to the bell.
Also taking pride of place at the entrance to the shed is a lantern that belonged to a carriage of Pierre’s grandfather.
The couple bought the property 11 years ago and planted 2000 olive trees on it that year, followed by a further 700 two years later.
The grove is mostly planted to olives that are suitable for oil production.
The Italian and Spanish varieties have suited the region well but the Italians require more water.
The drive is also lined with table olives Helen has experimented with and plans to make in commercial quantities for the first time after the next harvest.
Pierre says irrigation was used in the first two years to establish the trees but last year only was used on one variety.
“Olives love this country,” he said.
Interestingly they say that the biggest trees seem to be growing in the rockiest part of the grove.
They have a few ideas why and plan to press an “on the rocks” special after next year’s harvest.
It’s been quite a journey to get to this point.
“I come from Stanley and grew up on an orchard,” Helen said.
Music was a huge part of her life and she taught at Wodonga and Beechworth schools as well as being involved with several Albury Music Theatre productions.
It was in 1991 when she was travelling in Europe that Helen met Pierre in Paris.
They were at the same ball, among 600 other guests, when Pierre was persuaded to look after “the Australian”.
So began a lasting romance and many trips back and forth between Australia and Europe.
It was during this time that Helen opened her home — known as Lilac Cottage — in Beechworth to guests.
Last year it was named one of the 20 best places to stay in wine-growing regions of Australia and New Zealand.
Last month RACV also named it in its best 101 places to stay in Victoria.
Helen returned to Australia
with Pierre who was given an appointment with a French company in Sydney.
While in Sydney they bought the Beechworth property and began to plan what to do with it.
Pierre said they only had two options — grapes or olives.
“In my mind grapes were too much work,” he says.
“And grapes need more water.”
“People are increasingly using olive oil. It’s like wine in some ways. People now select the good wine.”
The couple had a short stint in Melbourne, with Helen spending most of her time at Beechworth.
Last August they both moved onto the grove permanently.
The couple describe their workdays as 24 hours, seven days a week.
Helen is adamant no more olives will be planted on the property.
The newest arrival will soon be their very own olive press.
This year was also the first time they entered their oil in any competitions — and with great success.
In the Australian Olive Association’s Extra Virgin Olive Oil Show they took home two bronzes and a silver.
But they don’t want oil to be the only drawcard for a visit to L’Oliveraie.
It’s also about the experience.
“We’ve tried to make something different, a little bit of Italy or the south of France,” Pierre said.
They are looking at putting in a picnic spot and would be delighted if people came out to enjoy the serenity of the grove.
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