The brochure states that our ferry cruise is inspired by sundown drinks in the mighty Zambezi River in Africa. I'm not sure about you, but when I think of a ''ferry'' I imagine a large ocean-faring vessel like the Manly ferry, not a 12-seater glorified runabout. And while the Currambene river (actually it's a creek) is teeming with egrets, pelicans, and herons, there's not a hippopotamus or crocodile to be seen within cooee.
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However, despite initial reservations, it's not long before we fall under the spell of this pretty little creek, which winds through the wetlands behind the famous white sand beaches of Jervis Bay.
Although Captain Dave has only been navigating these waters in his flat-bottomed Kellie Marie (affectionately known as the Husky Ferry) for two years, he already has a repertoire of stories longer than the fish that the publican in the Husky Pub reckons he caught back in 1971. First, there's the ''trio of merry golfers teed off the back of the ferry, losing all their balls before they made it to the golf course'', and then there's the tale of ''the local who claims he gutted a pelican and sold it as a Christmas turkey at a Sunday market''.
You'd think Captain Dave's most harrowing moment might have been braving bull sharks to swim to the shore when his motors once failed, but no, it was a marriage proposal. ''When he got down on his knees, I looked the other way - it would have been a long trip back to the wharf if she'd have said no,'' he laughs.
We briefly hop off at the Woollamia Boat Ramp. Here, a number of stingrays dart around, waiting for fish scraps from the nearby fish-cleaning table. Back on board with the sun dipping further in the west, it's time to reach in the ice bucket for another refreshing ale to accompany a generous serving of cheese and bikkies from our picnic hamper.
The slow-flowing Currambene, which is tidal for the length of our cruise, is a haven for birdwatchers and you can easily see why. In the space of 10 minutes we spot a white-bellied sea eagle pluck a fish out of the water, hardly getting its feet wet, an Australasian darter drying itself on a log and an azure kingfisher fluttering among trees along the banks.
For such a calm evening, surprisingly we have the river to ourselves, well almost. As we putt-putt further up the river, it narrows and a lone fishermen politely pulls his set lines in so we don't get hooked.
There's something captivating about watching the sun set over water, especially when you hail from a landlocked city, but it turns out to be just our appetiser to a magical evening. Around the next bend, Captain Dave pulls up at a wooden wharf, lined with colourful kayaks which bob up and down in the wake of the Kelly Marie, helps us off and bids us farewell.
We've arrived on the Currambene at the ultra-private, ultra-exclusive Paperbark Camp for part two of our sundowners. Hidden among the forest canopy on raised platforms are a dozen deluxe tents. Now when I say deluxe, I really mean it - this is glamping to the max - the sturdy canvas structures come complete with their own private open-air en suite with hot shower and free-standing bath. Heck, even the creature-comfort-addicted Mrs Yowie could probably cope with this concept of roughing it.
Paperbark Camp is the realisation of a vision Irena and Jeremy Hutchings had while visiting Africa in the early 1990s. Over a few sundowners with good friends in a private safari camp, the innovative couple thought the same concept would be ideal for Australia and promptly set up this Huskisson hideaway. Now in its 15th year, the luxury camp lures visitors from all over the world in search of a peaceful, back-to-nature retreat. But it is now just as well-known for The Gunyah, its treetop restaurant.
Now, this isn't any old tree house whipped up by some local Huckleberry Finn wannabes. The Gunyah is housed in an ochre-toned, architecturally designed work of art; a candle-lit oasis set among a sea of gums, paperbarks and mangroves.
Expectantly, we clamber up the stairs to our table on the knockout verandah. The air is laced with those wonderful smells of the bush which only seem to transpire after dark, oh, and our seasonal vegetables plucked straight from the garden, simmering under the watchful gaze of our chef. Perched high in the trees we can almost count the stars popping out, one by one.
Our entree and mains are to die for and after our dessert of lychees and sorbet we linger at our table, not wanting to let go of the night. We even make up with the cheeky possum which kept eyeing off our perfectly presented plates for most of the night from its nearby roost. It feels like we are somewhere far more exotic than on the banks of a south coast creek. Sure, it may not be Africa, but a sunset cruise along the (mighty) Currambene followed by an intimate candlelit dinner among the treetops is more than just an enchanting way to mark a special occasion. It's an experience that'll renew your soul.
Oh, and next time, we might even stay overnight.
FACT FILE
Cruise and dinner: Sunset cruise up Currambene Creek (with picnic hamper and a selection of drinks) followed by candle-lit dinner at The Gunyah, Paperbark Camp's tree-top restaurant. For bookings and prices, phone 02 4441 7299 or info@paperbarkcamp.com.au.
Did you know: You don't have to be a guest at Paperbark Camp to enjoy this experience.
Best suits: Canoodling couples and small groups celebrating a birthday or anniversary.
Getting there: Paperbark Camp is at 571 Woollamia Rd, Woollamia, about four kilometres from Huskisson and is a 240-kilometre (about three hours) drive from Canberra via Moss Vale and Kangaroo Valley. Alternatively, it's just 200 kilometres (but still allow three hours) via Bungendore and Nerriga. Get the best of both worlds and go one way and come back the other.
Big birthday bash: To celebrate their 15th birthday on Sunday, May 4, Paperbark Camp is hosting a paddle up the Currambene Creek from the Woollamia boat ramp at 11.30am to the camp (a distance of about two kilometres) on anything that floats. Yes, anything! Once at the camp, paddlers will be treated to a delicious spread of local produce, drinks and live music. The cost is by way of a small donation to the Osprey Restoration fund-raising program. You don't have to be staying at the camp to join in the fun, but there are special rates for paddlers to stay.
More: Phone 1300 668 167 or see paperbarkcamp.com.au.
Husky Ferry: Operates from the Huskisson wharf with regular transfers to Myola. Also available for private charters. Closed during winter months.
Green Cape may not be as green as it was when I visited earlier this month (Wild Place Captivates, March 8). Unfortunately, a recent hazard reduction burn broke containment lines and burned an area four times larger than planned.
Although NSW Parks and Wildlife report that Pulpit and City Rock walking tracks (Walking on the Edge, March 15) are open and clear, several readers, including Julian Robinson, report that ''the fire was a disaster for birds and animals that lived in that heathland, especially slow moving reptiles and sedentary birds. The whole area looks horrifying, partly because the burnt area is so vast, partly because the low intensity burn turned out to be high intensity, and partly because it is now so starkly devoid of life.'' Fingers crossed it won't be long before this special part of Ben Boyd National Park returns to its former beauty.
Worst maritime disaster
A number of readers, including Stephen Brown and Forrest and Mark Jenkins, have written in to set the record straight regarding our worst maritime disasters. Although when the Ly-ee-Moon crashed into Green Cape in May, 1886, 71 lives were sadly lost, Australia's worst shipwreck in terms of loss of life was when the British barque Cataraqui sank off the south-west coast of King Island in Bass Strait in August 1845. ''The sinking was Australia's worst ever maritime civil disaster incident, claiming the lives of 406 people.'' writes Jenkins.
CONTACT TIM
Email: timtheyowieman@bigpond.com or Twitter: @TimYowie or write to me c/o The Canberra Times 9 Pirie Street, Fyshwick.
