Modigliani, Manet, Picasso and Pollock are just some of the artists on display at Singapore's newest museum. An offshoot of the prestigious Parisian private museum, Singapore's Pinacotheque de Paris has a collection that makes up for in quality what it lacks in size. In addition to its European masterpieces, its Asian collection ranges across the region and epochs, from neolithic statues to ornate pieces from cultures as diverse as Sufi Islam and Peranakan Chinese. See pinacotheque.com.sg/heritagegallery.html

2 TIONG BAHRU

The lovely neighbourhood of Tiong Bahru, with its distinctive art deco buildings, is having something of a renaissance. Hip cafes and bakeries are appearing on Yong Siak Street, along with on-trend outlets including a high-end men's barber shop. The area's charm lies in the way these newcomers co-exist with old-fashioned tiled-floor coffee shops, pavement stalls selling enamelware and one of the city's best wet markets. If you are feeling peckish, the area's bustling hawker centre is also worth checking out.

3 KOPI TIAM

Start the day the old-fashioned way with the Singapore ritual known as kopi tiam. These traditional coffee shops are holding their own against Starbucks-style newcomers, thanks to locals who know the best way to start the day is with a milky coffee, a couple of soft-boiled eggs and toasted bread stacks, one side smeared with butter, the other with pandan jam: a tantalising salty-sweet combination. Try it at Good Morning Nanyang Cafe. See facebook.com/GoodMorningNanyangCafeFarEastPlaza.

4 BRING ON BRUNCH

Singaporeans love to eat, so it is not that surprising that as well as enjoying kopi tiam, they are also embracing the more recent phenomenon of brunch. This weekend ritual has become so popular that – even though many outlets serve it until 4pm – at popular cafes such as Five and Dime (fiveanddime.com.sg), you will have to reserve a table for a set session. For a more relaxed experience, try Rabbit Carrot Gun on East Coast Road (rabbit-carrot-gun.com), which serves a wicked eggs Florentine.

5 FINDERS KEEPERS

Orchard Street has more shopping per square kilometre than most thoroughfares but, even so, the outlet called Keepers on the corner of Cairnhill Road is unique. As a showcase for young Singaporean design talent, it stocks everything from fashion to vases, jewellery to bags. The selection changes regularly, but look for jewellery by Carrie Rocks, homewares from Supermama or silk dresses from Gin Lee. See keepers.com.sg

6 GO GREEN

Singapore's parks and gardens are often overlooked by visitors, but include some of its most charming attractions. The 100-hectare Gardens By The Bay (gardensbythebay.com.sg) boast two magnificent conservatories, the Flower Dome and the Cloud Forest, as well as the Sky Trees, which star in a stunning light show every night. However, its less glamorous sister, the National Botanic Gardens, is also worth a visit. This oasis near bustling Orchard Road recently scored a World Heritage Listing, and boasts a rainforest area and a magnificent orchid garden, with more than 100 species on display. See nparks.gov.sg

7 LITTLE INDIA

There is fierce competition for the title of Singapore's most colourful neighbourhood, but many would say that Little India steals the crown. It is not just the brightly painted houses that set it apart; the streets around Serangoon Road are awash with colour, from the marigold wreaths adorning street stalls to the Indian sweet stores and colourful temples. If you get peckish, stop in for an egg and onion dosa at one of the hole-in-the-wall restaurants.

★8 BE A BARFLY

Singapore's bar scene is thriving. Gin junkies will want to head straight for the Copper Club (coppersingapore.com ), which stocks a startling array of brands from around the world. (They also concoct their own infusions with flavours as diverse as basil, lavender and tom yum.) Prefer a glass of vino or two? Divine Wine Bar (divinewinesingapore.com ) offers opulent surrounds and a sterling selection from around the world. For a bit of adventure, try Operation Dagger (operationdagger.com), where the beverages are stored in chemist-style jars and the cocktails are listed by flavour rather than alcohol type.

9 ART AND ABOUT

It was once derided as a culture-free zone, but Singapore's art scene is coming along nicely. Spend an afternoon trawling some of the elegant old colonial Gillman Barracks (gillmanbarracks.com), home to 17 international art galleries; alternatively, if you time it right, your visit might coincide with a biannual ArtWalk at Wessex Estate (facebook.com/ArtWalkWessex), where you meet local artists in their studios. For photography fans, top of the list should be Deck (deck.sg), an independent exhibition space built of shipping containers.

10 MAKE LIKE A NIGHT OWL

This attraction is guaranteed to keep the children up past their bedtime. From Malayan tigers to giant anteaters, rhinoceros and gazelles, Night Safari lets you explore wild kingdoms that come alive at night. Travelling via walking trails and trams, the exhibits include about 1000 different species from eight regions. Family fun that is hard to beat. See nightsafari.com.sg.

★11 TAKE IT TO THE STREET

Singapore's hawker food has long been one of its great attractions: the good news is, it is no longer confined to food courts. Special food streets have been set up in Chinatown and elsewhere; among the most popular is Satay Street, or Boon Tat Street, where super-fresh seafood is served alongside the sizzling satay. The satay grills fire up at sundown, and the crowds start flowing in about 7pm.

12 LOO WITH A VIEW

They knew what they were doing when they installed a glass wall in the public toilets at Mount Faber: people take forever washing their hands as they drink in the view out towards Sentosa Island, cable cars gaily criss-crossing in the foreground. Just how good is the view? Consider this: we have seen blushing brides snapping their wedding pictures in here. Seriously. See faberpeaksingapore.com

★13 GO GLAM

The former fishing village known as Kampong Glam is one of Singapore's most vibrant neighbourhoods, where chador-clad women and old-school carpet sellers rub shoulders with hip bars and boutiques while the gold-domed Sultan Mosque stands watch. You can't beat Haji Lane for great street art and niche stores tucked into the old shophouses. Pick up some vintage inspired clothes at DulcetFig (dulcetfig.com), or sharp looks at ModParade (modparade.com). Later settle in with a cocktail at Bar Stories (barstories.com.sg).

14 THINK SMALL

The small plate trend has arrived in Singapore, and several restaurants are dishing up great pan-Asian flavours. Chijmes is a gorgeous converted convent, where you can sample the exquisite treats at the seriously stylish Coriander Leaf (corianderleaf.com). A delicious Vietnamese duck noodle salad shares the menu with steamed Venus clams with tamarind and coconut water. The more casual Ding Dong (dingdong.com.sg) also has a great selection of bites.

15 LAST CHANCE TO SEE

Over the last 50 years, Singapore has reinvented itself except for the tiny area known as Kampong Lorong Buangkok, an old-school village with single-storey houses where chickens roam freely. Not so long ago, this is how most Singaporeans lived. With the area slated for redevelopment, take a look now before it disappears.

16 MOVIE MAGIC

Universal Studios Singapore offers everything you want from a theme park, and is guaranteed to keep the children entertained all day long. Rides range from rollercoasters to Revenge of the Mummy; along the way, you can visit Shrek's castle, see the T-rex in The Lost World, and have your photo snapped with Marilyn Monroe. The littlies will love the Madagascar boat ride. See rwsentosa.com

★17 PUT YOUR FEET UP

There is a lot to explore in Chinatown, from cheap and cheerful noodle stalls to colourful temples to the cool bars and eateries lining Keong Saik Road. Our favourite budget treat is a foot massage in one of the many massage parlours. For less than $30, you can have new life kneaded into your weary feet and legs. If you have a low pain threshold, be sure to ask for a gentle massage.

18 REV YOURSELF UP

Every September, the city's streets are cleared for the Formula One Grand Prix, one of the few races around the world to take place at night. Several of the city's top hotels are located on the circuit, but you will need to book early to ensure a room with a view. Concerts and other events turn a road race into a major festival. See singaporegp.sg

19 DINE OUT

As befits a serious food capital, Singapore makes a strong showing each year in the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants lists, so food fans should plan at least one splurge dinner. Restaurant Andre (restaurantandre.com) and Iggy's (iggys.com.sg) are known for the artfully constructed plates served up in their degustation dinners. Fine French flavours shine through Les Amis (lesamis.com.sg) and Jaan (jaan.com.sg), while at the Tippling Club (tipplingclub.com), Ryan Clift's superb food and the buzzy vibe draws a hip crowd.

20 ISLAND LIFE

Tucked off Singapore's east coast, Pulau Ubin is Singapore's favourite rural retreat. Just a 10 minute boat ride from the Changi Village Ferry Terminal, visitors can spend the day strolling or cycling shady trails through old rubber plantations, or palm-shaded streets. From mangroves to deserted beaches, Pulau Ubin offers Singapore's cityslickers the chance to escape to the country – for a few hours, at least.

The writer was a guest of the Singapore Tourism Board.

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