When public relations and marketing types try to convince Simon Arkless to put a signature dish on his menu, he is unwilling.
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The co-owner and head chef of Yardbird in Albury remains too true to the seasons to commit to a single hero dish that's unchanged year-round.
"I like to cook very seasonally," he says.
"Something changes on the menu every single week; it's a constantly evolving process."
On a mission to present simple food, done well, Arkless has also been known to offer bone marrow or eel for the more adventurous.
"I cook food I enjoy myself," Arkless says.
"At the moment we have a confit of green garlic served with tapenade, a broad bean puree, goat curd and flat bread.
"We used to do it 30 years ago when I was working in London.
"I thought: 'It's not going to sell' but it's actually sold very well!"
Arkless' knack for curating an approachable yet interesting menu has served him well throughout a decorated career.
The Englishman picked up his 12th The Age Good Food Guide chef's hat this week.
It's the first time an Albury restaurant has gained a hat in more than a decade; the last was sourcedining in 2011 and 2012.
Together with wife and business partner Cait Mitchellhill, Arkless opened Yardbird in Townsend Street two years ago at the end of this month. They joined Melbourne restaurateur Denis Lucey (Bottega) to offer a European-influenced menu.
Yardbird employs 20 staff - including casuals - with most of them part of the original team.
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Having worked in fine dining venues in London and Melbourne, Albury-raised Mitchellhill says in terms of service consistency is key.
"It's about making sure staff are invested in what you're selling in the food and drinks and the whole experience the moment diners walk through the door to when they're leaving," she says.
"We're lucky we have retained a lot of our staff from the beginning.
"It helps with loyalty and being invested in the product and feeling like a team."
Having started work in London more than 30 years ago (Bibendum, Fifth Floor - Harvey Nichols Restaurant and OXO Tower Restaurant), Arkless scored his first chef's hat working at Comme in Melbourne.
A tree-change to Albury saw Arkless appointed head chef at All Saints Estate's Terrace Restaurant at Wahgunyah and Thousand Pound at Rutherglen, while Mitchellhill transferred her skills to front of house.
More chef's hats followed at The Terrace in subsequent years.
"We've always worked side by side but not always in the same kitchen," Mitchellhill says.
"It's nice to bring a hat back to Albury."
Now operating Tuesday to Saturday for dinner, Yardbird introduced a lunch service on Thursday and Friday about six months ago.
It will offer Saturday lunch service from November 11.
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